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Youngs Weeping Birch in the GardenTags plant encyclopedia

Betula pendulum 'Youngii'

 

Young's Weeping Birch

An ornamental, deciduous weeping tree with serrated, lime green young leaves which darken as they age and become yellow in the autumn. It produces masses of small, yellowish-brown catkins in early spring and sports peeling white bark. The pendent branches can often reach the ground.

Contributed by @SuffolkMawther

 
plant Features
  • Youngs Weeping Birch likes full sun to partial shade

    Full sun to partial shade

  • Youngs Weeping Birch likes very little water

    Very little water

  • Youngs Weeping Birch is full frost hardy: 5f (-15°c)

    Full Frost Hardy: 5F (-15°C)

  • Youngs Weeping Birch likes moist and free draining soil

    Moist and free draining

 
plant information

Common name

Young's Weeping Birch

Latin name

Betula pendulum 'Youngii'

type

Deciduous trees or shrubs

family

Betulaceae

ph

5.0 - 7.5 Acid - Neutral

  • Light

    Youngs Weeping Birch likes full sun to partial shade

    Full sun to partial shade

  • Frost

    Youngs Weeping Birch is full frost hardy: 5f (-15°c)

    Full Frost Hardy: 5F (-15°C)

  • Soil

    Youngs Weeping Birch likes moist and free draining soil

    Moist and free draining

  • Water

    Youngs Weeping Birch likes very little water

    Very little water

Plant & bloom calendar

  •  
    Best time to plant

full grown dimensions

The size of a fully grown Youngs Weeping Birch is 8.00meters x 8.00meters 8.00 M 8.00 M

Betula pendulum 'Youngii'

An ornamental, deciduous weeping tree with serrated, lime green young leaves which darken as they age and become yellow in the autumn. It produces masses of small, yellowish-brown catkins in early spring and sports peeling white bark. The pendent branches can often reach the ground.


Planting

From Late Autumn TO Early Spring

Planting is best done between late autumn and early spring. Avoid planting in waterlogged (water sitting on the soil surface or pooled in the bottom of the hole) or frozen (too hard to get the spade in) soil. Container-grown plants can be planted any time of the year, but are easier to care for if planted in autumn or winter, as they need less watering than ones planted in spring or summer. Bare-root and rootballed trees and shrubs are only available in autumn and winter. They should be planted immediately, but if this is not possible, then they can be heeled in (temporary planting in the soil to prevent the roots drying out) until planting is possible. Dig a planting hole that is no deeper than the roots, but is ideally at least three times the diameter of the root system. If the sides of the planting hole are compacted, break the soil up with a fork before planting. Soak bare-rooted trees or shrubs for about 30 minutes prior to planting. And give containerised plants a good water before taking them out of their pots. Place the tree or shrub in the planting hole and position it so that the first flare of roots are level with the soil surface when planting is complete. With container grown plants, the top layers of compost may need to be scraped away to reveal the flare of roots. Deep planting prevents essential air movement to the root system and makes the lower trunk vulnerable to disease - this can lead to poor establishment. Refill the planting hole carefully, placing soil between and around all the roots to eliminate air pockets.

 

Planting

From Late Autumn TO Early Spring

Planting is best done between late autumn and early spring. Avoid planting in waterlogged (water sitting on the soil surface or pooled in the bottom of the hole) or frozen (too hard to get the spade in) soil. Container-grown plants can be planted any time of the year, but are easier to care for if planted in autumn or winter, as they need less watering than ones planted in spring or summer. Bare-root and rootballed trees and shrubs are only available in autumn and winter. They should be planted immediately, but if this is not possible, then they can be heeled in (temporary planting in the soil to prevent the roots drying out) until planting is possible. Dig a planting hole that is no deeper than the roots, but is ideally at least three times the diameter of the root system. If the sides of the planting hole are compacted, break the soil up with a fork before planting. Soak bare-rooted trees or shrubs for about 30 minutes prior to planting. And give containerised plants a good water before taking them out of their pots. Place the tree or shrub in the planting hole and position it so that the first flare of roots are level with the soil surface when planting is complete. With container grown plants, the top layers of compost may need to be scraped away to reveal the flare of roots. Deep planting prevents essential air movement to the root system and makes the lower trunk vulnerable to disease - this can lead to poor establishment. Refill the planting hole carefully, placing soil between and around all the roots to eliminate air pockets.

 
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